Fez, or Fes, is like a more chilled-out, smaller version of Marrakesh. Entering the ancient medina, or old town, through the blue gate truly feels like you’re walking right into the middle of Aladdin. With over 9000 alleyways to get lost in, Fez can be a sensory overload which makes for a great cultural experience.
By the way, the medina is only half inhabited by humans and the other half is run by cats! Cars are banned in this medina and vendors are slightly less aggressive (unlike Marrakesh) which makes exploring more relaxed. Two days would be an ideal amount of time so that you can thoroughly explore the medina but also participate in a scheduled activity or two.
To learn more general tips about traveling to Morocco, check out our Destination: Morocco page. Interested in exploring Casablanca or Marrakesh, here’s our guide with everything you need to know!
HOW TO GET HERE
The two largest international airports in Morocco are in Casablanca (Mohammad V International Airport CMN) and Marrakesh (Menara Airport RAK). There is also an airport in Fez (Saïss FEZ) so you could arrive by air.
It is also easy (and cheaper) to get to Fez from Casablanca or Marrakesh via train or bus. For the train, you can either buy a ticket directly at the train station or purchase it in advance on RailNinja.com. There are several trains that leave throughout the day from most major cities. The train ride from Casablanca to Fez is 4-5 hours and cost us around $35.
For more information on getting around Morocco, check out this post by Lonely Planet.
WHAT TO DO
*Enter through the Bab Boujloud Blue Gate
This is the big blue gate that you will use to enter the old city, or medina, of Fez. This ornate French entrance was built in 1913 to replace the original gate from the 12th century. This is the furthest that cars can enter into the city, so it is likely where your taxi will drop you off. It is also often used as a meeting point for tours.
*Get lost in the Fez El Bali Medina
The old city of Fez, also known as the medina, was a highlight of our Morocco trip. Follow the general flow of people and just let yourself get lost a little, it is kinda impossible not to get lost in there anyways and that is all part of the fun. You will be surrounded by handicrafts, food, tea, craft shops, and rugs. Although there are no motorized vehicles allowed in this medina, keep an eye out for mule drivers! Little kids will also catch you if you look lost and offer to “help”… for a price. You can always shopkeepers for guidance. You can spend an entire day exploring the medina.
Escape the chaos at Jnan Sbil Gardens
If you need a break from the hustle-bustle, take a 10-minute walk out of the medina to these gardens. There are some nice fountains that cool down the area and a mix of different gardens. Closed on Mondays.
*Take a Food Tour
Moroccan food is delicious and taking a food tour will give you a chance to try a bunch of local staples and still learn some history along the way. We took this Viator tour for $50/person with Fatima, who was excellent. Ask to skip the apothecary and rug demonstration if you are not interested. Come hungry as you will be eating a lot!
*Get bathed at a Hammam Mernissi & Spa
Everyone should visit a hammam at least once in their lives. Being scrubbed and washed like a toddler is hilarious and you will leave with baby-smooth skin. FYI, this is an aggressive exfoliation, not your grandma’s day spa. Spots can fill up, so stop by in the morning to reserve an opening. Central location in the medina just a few minutes from the blue gate.
Visit the Chouara Tanneries
This is a popular activity to do in Fez which we thought was a little overrated. A tannery is where animal skins are processed into usable leather. The Chouara Tannery is ~900 years old, still operational, and is considered the oldest in the world. It smells kinda horrible and you can catch a glimpse of it from many rooftops in the area, which is more than enough… unless you’re really into leather production.
Take a weekend trip to Chefchaouen
If you have longer to spend in Fez, consider taking a trip to the insta-famous blue city of Chefchaouen. Jewish immigrants painted the houses blue during the 2nd World War and it makes for some awesome photos, but seems like that is kind of the main attraction of the place. It takes about 4 hours to get from Fez to Chefchaouen, so you could do it as a long day trip if you really wanted to.
*Grab a meal at the Berrada Family Restaurant
Our food tour took us to this little family restaurant inside the medina that we likely would have never found on our own. There was no menu, instead we were taken straight back to the kitchen to taste and choose from what the women were preparing. This was hands down the tastiest lamb we have ever tried in our entire lives. Truly an authentic dining experience.
Eat in a garden at The Ruined Garden
Enchanting little courtyard setting with tasty food. Try the date cake.
For more food recommendations in Fez, check out this guide by Lonely Planet!
*Go glamping in the Sahara Desert
This was the highlight of our Morocco trip. Many outfitters will take you to either the Erg Chebbi or Erg Chigaga dunes of the Sahara, but we used Desert Luxury Camp after reading all of their positive reviews. We were not disappointed. Not only did the package come with breakfast, dinner, camel-riding, and nightly entertainment, but they were also able to transport us from Fez to Marrakesh eliminating a flight/train from our itinerary. We opted for the 4 day/3 night package which cost about $500-600/person. Our experience came with an awesome driver/guide Youseff who made the journey all the more incredible.
We were picked up from our riad in Fez at 0900 by Youseff who drove us through the cities Irfane (“the Switzerland of Morocco”), Azrou, Midelt, to Merzouga. On the way, we had stops for lunch (delicious trout and we even tried camel), photos, fresh date stands, and even a fossil exhibition. From Merzouga, we transferred to a 4-wheel drive vehicle and off-roaded across the dunes to our glamping campsite.
The canvas tents are beautiful and spacious with full-size beds, western toilets, hot showers, and even AC (only at night though). The campsite has a central fireplace, an indoor dining area, and even a large swimming pool. The staff not only served us dinner at night but also performed for us at night with Moroccan drums and local songs. They were very friendly and attentive.
The next day we went for a camel ride after breakfast and then hung out by the pool until dinner. On our third day we left the campsite and drove through the Todra Gorge and across the Draa Valley spending a night at the beautiful Dar Hnini private villas (this dinner was not included in the package). Our final day was across the High Atlas mountains as we made our way to Marrakesh. If we could do it again, we would probably opt for the 3 day/2 night package as our 2nd day at the campsite was HOT as balls and a little redundant. Be prepared for some long car rides, but such a memorable experience. We were able to book a custom itinerary by reaching out to desertluxurycamp@gmail.com. Highly recommend.
WHERE TO STAY
*Stay in a Riad
A riad, or ryad, is an open courtyard lux home once owned by the Moroccan upper class. You can rent out an entire home on Airbnb. We had an amazing time at Riad Vega, run by a French doctorate in Eastern Languages and Civilization who has put so much time and detail into her gorgeous home. Every single room is elaborately decorated and it really feels as if you have traveled through time. Breakfast is served daily by the lovely Fatima who is there to help from morning to afternoon. A true highlight of our Morocco trip, we would stay here again and again. Highly recommend!
*Eat fresh dates off the palms at the luxury Dar Hnini Private Villas
On our way out of the Sahara desert en route to Marrakesh, we stayed at the absolutely stunning Dar Hnini private villas in the Draa Valley. This place was magical and we wish we had more time here. It is a stunning property loaded with fruit trees and date palms. You can try every type of date imaginable fresh off the tree. The accommodations were luxurious with private pools attached. Meals were served in the courtyard and the food was delicious. If you find yourself in the Draa Valley, absolutely stay at this magical property.
MAP
Here is our free Google Map with all of our recommendations from above.
